Priorat The Region and the Gang Behind It

Priorat, a small wine region in Catalonia, Spain, has experienced a remarkable transformation from a forgotten land to a globally recognized wine-producing district. This journey is deeply intertwined with the contributions of visionary winemakers, including Daphne Glorian, who has played a pivotal role in elevating the region's reputation.

I became obsessed with Daphne's story and thought it fitting to collect my thoughts on the history or Priorat, the actors behind its reemergence, and finally Daphne's Clos i Terrasses.

History of Priorat

The history of Priorat dates back to the 12th century when monks from the Carthusian Monastery of Scala Dei introduced viticulture to the area. Over the centuries, the monks tended to the vineyards until they were expropriated by the state in 1835. The region faced significant challenges, including the devastating phylloxera pest in the late 19th century, which led to economic ruin and large-scale emigration. It wasn't until the 1950s that replanting efforts began, and the DO Priorat was formally established in 1954.

In the 1980s, Priorat began its transformation into a top-quality wine region. Pioneers like René Barbier and Álvaro Palacios recognized the potential of the area and convinced others to invest in new vineyards. This period marked the beginning of a shift from bulk wine production to quality bottling, setting the stage for Priorat's rise to international acclaim.

Priorat's Transformation and 'The Gang of Five'

The 'Gang of Five,' also known as the 'Magnificent Five,' was a group of visionary winemakers who played a pivotal role in transforming Priorat into the wine region it is today. This group consisted of René Barbier of Clos Mogador, Álvaro Palacios of Clos Dofí, Daphne Glorian of Clos i Terrasses, Carles Pastrana of Clos de l'Obac, and José Luis Pérez of Clos Martinet.

The formation of the Gang of Five was not a formal process but rather a natural convergence of like-minded individuals passionate about reviving Priorat's wine industry. In the late 1980s, these pioneers recognized the potential of Priorat's unique terroir, characterized by its slate soils and ancient vineyards. They shared a vision to produce high-quality wines that would showcase the region's distinct characteristics.

"Then these crazy people from the outside world (Rene, Alvaro, Josep Lluis and myself) showed up and decided that there was potential there to make great wines and restore the Priorat to its former glory. Our pride today is that when success hit in the 90’s, the children of the farmers who had emigrated decided to come back and work the family vineyards and make wine."

— Daphne Glorian, Clos Terrasses

The group had three main tenets:

1. They aimed to restore Priorat's historical wine tradition, which had been severely impacted by phylloxera and economic decline.

2. By introducing modern winemaking practices and experimenting with new grape varieties, they sought to enhance the quality and complexity of Priorat wines.

3. Through their collective efforts, they sought to raise international awareness of Priorat's wines, leveraging their individual strengths to promote the region as a whole.

The Gang of Five achieved several significant milestones in their journey to transform Priorat into a renowned wine region. One of their most notable achievements was the production of high-quality wines that gained international recognition. Álvaro Palacios's L'Ermita, for example, became one of the most celebrated and expensive Spanish wines, symbolizing the region's potential for producing exceptional wines.

Their efforts also led to a substantial transformation of Priorat. The region experienced rapid growth in both population and economic activity. The number of wineries increased dramatically, from just a few in the 1980s to over 70 by 2006. This expansion not only revitalized the local economy but also brought new opportunities and investments to the area.

Furthermore, the Gang of Five played a crucial role in fostering community engagement. By working closely with local farmers and sharing their knowledge, they helped revitalize the local economy and create a sense of unity among wine producers. Their collaborative approach encouraged traditional winegrowers to continue farming, which was essential for maintaining the region's historical wine tradition.

Photo courtesy of: European Cellars

Daphne Glorian and Clos i Terrasses

While all members of 'The Gang of Five' deserve their own sections in blogs such as these, we do want to focus on the contribution of Daphne Glorian, given her sacrifice and courage at a time when wine was more of a boy's club than it is now.

In the 80s and 90s women had to work harder to prove themselves and break stereotypes. As one winemaker mentioned, "breaking stereotypes of a woman’s capabilities in the wine industry – not just related to winemaking, but also in grape growing" was a major obstacle. So, celebrating Daphne's triumphant stamp on Priorat wines is highly deserved.

Daphne Glorian, a Swiss-born winemaker, was instrumental in elevating Priorat's reputation. Her journey into winemaking was serendipitous, beginning with a visit to Priorat in the late 1980s. Initially consumed by the region's beauty, she was persuaded by pioneers like Álvaro Palacios and René Barbier to invest in the area. Daphne purchased a plot and planted Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Grenache vines to complement the existing old-vine Grenache plantations.

Clos i Terrasses, under Daphne's stewardship, has become synonymous with excellence in Priorat. The winery produces a mere 140 cases annually, making its flagship label a rare and coveted gem in the wine world. Her flagship wine, Clos Erasmus, is noted for its rich, powerful, and densely structured character, combined with exotic and captivating aromas. In addition to the prized Clos Erasmus, Daphne produces another red blend called Laurel and it is famed in its own rights. This wine is a blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Daphne's commitment to sustainable practices is evident in her adoption of biodynamic principles since 2004. This approach not only enhances the quality of her wines but also contributes to the environmental stewardship of the region. Her influence extends beyond her own winery, as she has become a mentor and guide for younger generations of winemakers in Priorat.